Lesson 16: Mogador
It sounds like a Spanish Matador, and the experience surrounding this cake was kind of like a personal bull fight!
These Demonstration and Practical classes occupied the two days before my written exam.
Mind you from the sound of the cake I was pretty excited to make it!
Who can resist these layers – a Chocolate Sponge soaked in Raspberry liqueur, topped with a thin layer of raspberry jam, a thick layer of chocolate mousse and adorned with a raspberry glaze and a chocolate mousse design.
For the many people that have tried my old style of baking, they know my love of the combination of dark chocolate and tart raspberries!
This was slightly off course from my usual creations!
The Chef started the demonstration by reminding us of the importance of beating the egg yolks enough to get a thick ribbon like consistency – only he was lucky enough to use his industrial mixer! Once again our arms would be tormented in practical by the prospects of whipping all the elements by hand!
We learnt for the first time, well not really, that he is both a Chef and Pastry Chef which is why he is different and uses a soup ladle to transfer his génoise to the moulds – I think it is quite practical personally.
We also learnt of the importance of NOT
BUTTERING YOUR MOULDS for this recipe – I am in shock and my arteries have cried a short and stifled sigh of relief. However, it actually makes sense in this case – we wanted to take advantage of the génoise sticking to the mould so that it will keep its shape and not shrink or deform as it cools. Brilliantly simple I might add!
We then removed the cooled génoise from the moulds with our pincer like motions using the small knife and rotating the mould to extricate the precious chocolate sponges with as much of the surface intact. We then cut off the mounds to achieve the desired thickness of the sponge base before employing an extremely nifty technique.
The old cut, spread and fill – only it is entirely new to me. You make a small incision in the base, spread apart the cake and fill the hole with slices of the excess baked cake. This fully maximised base pushes against the edges of the mould, so that it doesn’t shrink with cooling. It is then imbibed with the raspberry liqueur sugar syrup and piped with raspberry jam which has been further ‘enriched’ with more raspberry liqueur.
Now onto the revered Chocolate mousse… once again produced with a machine, but you can see on his face how hard he has been working, he looks almost exasperated at this point.
What was useful again was the techniques for filling the mould with the spatula from the edges.
Then the final layer of a raspberry glaze is smoothly spread on top creating a glossy red finish.
The final products, of varying sizes and decorations but all tasting exactly the same!
The second focus for todays demonstration was our first look at tempering chocolate … I was really excited but by the end I wasn’t vastly impressed – the spectacle was nice, yet the promise of gloss and shine, hardness and crispness, brittleness with the perfect crack were not fullfilled despite 20 years of practice – I blame the chocolate!
He was very funny though with his physical comedy routine when blowing the gold dust to add a speckled effect to the tempered chocolate!
The practical exam was in sight, but prior to succumbing to the studying bug, I first had to do my practical class for Le Mogador!
I was really proud of my layers, I was really happy with my genoise – but I made a major error in the rush!
I added my melted chocolate directly to the other cool ingredients being the whipped sabayon and cream thus seizing the chocolate creating a mouse with hard grains of chocolate throughout. It was a major error but with a little ingenuity salvagable all the same – it is a matter of partially warming the bowl and then continuing to whisk until it melts and is reincorporated but before the mousse melts!
Here is the inspection by the chef, and notice everyone is smiling – we all did incredibly well… I was suitably impressed!